Our Ride Back Down the Saddle

After one an a half hour of gruelling walk back to the Saddle from the village of Batad, I finally made it back with time to spare. The jeepney was there as promised along with a host of other people, locals and foreigners on their way to Banaue. The jeepney won’t be leaving just yet so we were relaxing at the only place we can relax here at the Saddle. There was a lone store at the Saddle selling drinks to tired travellers. Naturally, they are quite expensive, but of course if you are in need of water, you would probably pony up for it. Talk about monopoly.

Some of the foreigners decided to ride on top of the jeepney. I would probably agree that it would be a nice experience, but this was probably not the place to do it. The sun was already bearing down on us and that metal roof will definitely get very hot as the day progresses. However, most importantly, the road down the Saddle isn’t really a real road, it just was a dirt road. The rains the previous day might have loosened the soil here and I don’t really trust the jeepney would be able to handle it. Sitting on top might not be the best place to be if something happened. Oh, did I mention that the road was only good enough for one vehicle?

The View from the Saddle

Apparently, the jeepney drive was confident that no one will be climbing up was running quite fast, when another vehicle suddenly popped up. The sudden brake of the jeepney sent us sliding down the slope a couple of feet. Fortunately, no one fell or was hurt. We got back to Banaue in one piece and by the time afternoon came it was raining. I was intending to visit some of the other terraces in the area which I haven’t visited, but forgot all about it because of the weather. At least it wasn’t hot.

After lunch, with nothing to do but just hang around, I just got a room at People’s Inn and spent the rest of the afternoon there. The bus back to Manila will only leave at 6:30. The room wasn’t really that interesting, but at least it was clean. There was also the sound of the nearby stream providing some ambience. I got back to Manila in no time, the typhoon veered away from the area and was no threat at all. Anyway, for the short time that I spent there, I was still glad I got away from it all.

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Magnificent View of the Surrounding Mountains in Batad

Even before I went to Batad this time, there was an impending typhoon, though it hasn’t made landfall yet, there was a threat that it would pass through the Ifugao region. I had to make a decision on whether I should stay or continue on my vacation. Chances are the mountains will shield the region from the effects of the typhoon. Then again maybe not. I decided to err on the side of caution and left Simon’s Inn the very next day. I would have wanted to explore the area but I can’t risk getting stranded in the mountains for the next couple of days.

Staircases to the Sky at Batad

My legs haven’t even recovered yet from walking down the mountain and yet, I’m torturing them again by climbing back up. I decided to leave early, around 6:30 in the morning so that I would have enough time to make it to the 9am jeepney that leaves from the Saddle. It takes people 45 minutes to go down, it will probably take me twice a long to go back up. This would give me ample time to crawl back up. Fortunately for me, the rain from the previous has already dried up and the path was as good as it can ever be. There is only one way up so there is no risk of getting lost here. A few people overtook me on the way up but they were mostly locals probably rushing off to work in the big town of Banaue.

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Village at the Foot of the Batad Rice Terraces

Just after I got to Simon’s Inn I decided to do a little exploration. I actually wanted to visit the beautiful Tappia falls which I literally needed to cross a mountain just to see. I have a very good idea where the falls is, it is just that the paths to the down the valley and to the falls isn’t really very well marked. I tried walking down the mountain by myself, but found myself in a dead end. I couldn’t find a path, or make that I was too lazy for find a path.

This is as Far as I Could Go

Honestly, I was too tired from walking down the mountain that morning and I was still feeling the effects. My legs were already like jelly and I was nowhere even halfway down the mountain. Although I wanted to see the Tappia falls, the flesh is weak and I reasoned that it was getting dark and I don’t want to be caught in the middle of nowhere in a thunderstorm. There won’t be any trees for shelter here and the inn will be a hour’s worth of hiking just to get back from the falls. The lazy me won and I head back to Simon’s inn and just relaxed the day away. Sure enough, a few hours later, there was a storm. Laziness has it benefits too.

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I thought that since I have been to Batad village, I would know what to expect now. However, that wasn’t the case. The moment I stepped outside the Saddle, it was like at totally new path for me. Indeed, it has been more than six years since I last set foot on this path, I thought that it wouldn’t change that much. Maybe it did, maybe it didn’t, but I don’t remember the path being like that. Maybe my memory is failing me. Last time a friend of mine accompanied me to the village, this was my first time alone. Maybe I wasn’t paying attention.

Anyway, after about 45 minutes of walking. The constant pounding on the knees is already taking its toll on me. I was already huffing and puffing, and this was downhill. I dread to imagine how it would be like to go back up the same way. The was not much to see along the way though, we met a local girl going the other way, and she was it was still 30 minutes away. I was already wondering why did I decide to come here knowing it will be a difficult climb when we were suddenly met by the mejestic view of the ampitheater of Batad.

Simon's Inn at Batad

I quickly made my way to Simon’s Inn, where I stayed the last time. There didn’t seem to be anyone staying there at the time and Simon was nowhere in sight. Anyway I go a room for myself and just crashed into the bed. I spent a while to admire the view from Simon’s Inn balcony. This time the village as electricity but at night it was still eerily quiet. I made the mistake of leaving my window open at night when I was getting to bed, when I turn off I realized my mistake, there were a lot of insects that were attracted to the light of the room. Try as I might I won’t be able to chase them out, some were quite huge too. May I could just sleep with them.

When I closed the lights, I discovered that the room was filled with fireflies, lots of them. Sure they were pretty and all, but it was really irritating since they don’t keep still and kept flying in the dark. I tried to tough it out but it was no use. I opened another room’s light hoping it would attract them out of my room, but it was taking forever. I decided to just switch to another room. Everybody was already asleep so I just took a room next door and finally got to sleep soundly.

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Stunning View of the Batad Rice Terraces

It was my third time to be going to Banaue, and I could say that I am already quite comfortable in that town. What did catch me by surprise though, is the number touts that have sprouted since my last visit. Although they are not the pushy type, at least not yet, they are numerous enough to irritate me. What more with their constant chewing of betel nuts giving them their bloody smiles, makes you think that they want to say “I want to suck your blood… and your money, too.”

Surrounding Terraces of the Batad Ampitheater

It seems that they have standardized the rates for going to the village of Batad by tricycle. This is well and good, since you don’t need to be afraid of getting ripped off – everyone will be equally ripped off. I thought it was quite pricey, I really wish they have public transport going to the village, then again maybe not at it might ruin the idyllic nature of the village. Since I was travelling alone, sharing is not an option either, oh well.

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Ampitheater Shaped Batad Rice Terraces

It has become a habit of mine whenever I visit the Philippines to go out of town for a short trip. It is primarily the only way to avoid the madness that is Manila and what comes with it. I took a bus ride from Autobus company, the only one I knew which went to the mountain town of Banaue. This was probably the third station they own that I have been to. I have been informed that this small waiting area of theirs is finally their own, the first two were only rented. I then noticed the huge fleet of bus that rival Florida bus company has. How much has this company grown in the recent years? Their buses seem to be very well maintained too. Anyway, I was going with Autobus because it wasn’t that bad anyway.

View of Small Village in Batad

I actually, booked a ride over the phone and I was told that the bus leaves at 6:30pm. I was quite puzzled since I remember the buses used to leave at ten in the evening. However, when I got there I was told that the schedule never changed. Oh well, went to a nearby mall where I waited until the time to depart. The bus station actually wasn’t that big so I wasn’t really very comfortable waiting there. Eating places weren’t really that common either. I got a nice seat in front with no seatmates making the trip a little more comfortable. I can’t wait to go back there as I have been craving for some mountain air for a while.

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Grilling Some Beef at Gyubou Japanese Yakiniku Restaurant

I had a week’s stay in Manila and I intended to make the most of it, so did my friend who agreed to meet with me that night. Conveniently enough he has a car and it was easier and faster for us to move around. We wanted to go for some drinks but decided that the Serendra area was a big too pricey. He decided to try out the Malate area since that was near where I stayed. Another reason why we wanted to try it out is that the air in Malate/Adriatico area was supposed to be very different from the classy air in Makati.

The Raw Beef with Marinade at Gyubou Japanese Yakiniku Restaurant

Unfortunately, the tales of beatnik poets were consigned to the dust bins of history as they are not to be found anywhere. Instead of quiet cafes and restaurants, what greeted us was stall after stall of Korean restaurants. I remember long time ago, there were only a handful of Korean restaurants here but this has already changed completely with the influx of Korean visitors in the recent years. We didn’t go for any Korean food, instead we chose this quiet little Japanese restaurant named Gyubou Japanese Yakiniku Restaurant.

Raw Chicken at the Gyubou Japanese Yakiniku Restaurant

As the name implies, the restaurant specializes in yakiniku or grilled beef. It would have been nice sampling what they have but were just came from dinner and just ordered two dishes. Guests would cook the raw ingredients on top of a metal screen just above some hot stones. The beef was splendid, the marinade was very and juicy, just make sure you don’t over-cook it. The beef was not tough either. The chicken on the hand was a letdown, we would have probably done better if we ordered two beef instead of taking the chicken. As chicken isn’t really good at keeping in the juices.

Amusingly, we were surprised to see a well known celebrity come in with his little “partners”. I am not that familiar with Philippine showbiz, but this one was someone even I recognize. I guess, this place is indeed quite a nice place to have some dinner. Also, despite having to cook the food yourself, the restaurant provided individual chimneys to suck away all the smoke, so you don’t have to leave there restaurant, smelling like food.

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My travels have brought me back to Manila once again and upon my non-stop nagging my friends agreed to meet up with me. The weather was uncharacteristically wet that time of the years, which is just as well since I don’t want it to be hot. My friends told me they would bring me to a store which they think I would like, it made me curious. Little did I know that they would be bringing me to a Chinese restaurant. I tried to hide my disappointment when I saw where it was.

Food Cooked in Hot and Numbing Broth in Peace and Happiness Dumpling Restaurant in Makati

Peace and Happiness Dumpling House is something like of an odd ball especially when they set up shop in the ground floor of one of the Cityland towers along Gil Puyat Avenue in Makati City. It is closer to the PNR train tracks. One might find it strange to name a store Peace and Happiness but it is actually not very strange in Chinese culture. Upon closer inspection, there Chinese characters crudely displayed on their sign board, obviously local sign artist have no experience writing Chinese characters. The Chinese characters say 老北京 or Old Beijing, which is actually a very common name for a Chinese restaurant. However, the owner of the store, from China, wasn’t able to register the name “Old Beijing”, so Peace and Happiness it is.

Xiao Long Bao Actually Not Beijing Specialty But Good Nonetheless

I am quite familiar with Chinese cuisine enough to be able to tell regional specialties. Beijing food is typically norther fare with noodles and of course dumplings. Of course they do have their own share of famous dishes most notably Peking Duck. From the name of the store, I can only surmise that they serve typicial Beijing fare. My friend recommended the braised beef, which was smothered in some chili oil. It was really very tasty and I loved the texture of the meat. We also ordered some hotpot which was supposedly dipped in hot and numbing broth, bringing back memories of Sichuan. This is probably the first time I’ve had Sichuan pepper in the Philippines and I’m glad it is finally taking root. Sichuan cuisine is wildly popular in China and some of its aspects, notable hot and numbing flavor, has made it into other cuisines.

The restaurant at the time of visit, has much to improve on. The airconditioning wasn’t working so hotpot wasn’t really a good idea. The owner however was very apologetic and she said they needed to fix it. She actually speaks English, not that fluently though, so she needs to rely on her helpers. I suggested, in Chinese, that she try to expand to barbeque or 烧烤 as I’m sure it will be a hit with the Filipino locals, not just the Chinese expatriates. The problem is the building management won’t allow it. Not a surprise, since the strong smell of cumin might be offensive to the people unaccustomed to it. Amusingly, a helper commented how stinky cumin was. I guess it really is a very different market in the Philippines. I hope they do well as I won’t mind going back there.

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Dumpling Soup at Yonghe King 永和大王

The next day I tried to start early but as usual, it takes me a long time before getting off of bed. The room was quite cool due to the weather outside so I didn’t really feel like going out. However, I needed to make the most of what was left of my trip so head out to the bus terminal. One thing I didn’t like about the my hostel was that it wasn’t really very near a subway stop, I had to walk a few blocks to get there. Anyway, my destination wasn’t very near either as I had to transfer several times to get there. The difference with the Shanghai and Beijing subway system is that the Beijing system is a flat CNY 2 for any two points. In Shanghai you are charged for the distance you traveled.

Number at Yonghe King 永和大王

I got off at one of the stations near the Shanghai Stadium but got hungry to so I looked for something to eat. I then saw this place called Yonghe King which I thought was very familiar. It was a fast food chain known for its soy milk. However, I wanted something hot, so it was dumpling soup for me. The Yonghe King store was very decent and modern. It is fast food service as you expect it to be. Then I remembered why this place was so familiar, Yonghe King is a subsidiary of the Jollibee group in the Philippines, which operates hundreds of fast food joints in the country. Yonghe King is now part of the Jollibee family and is the step of Jollibee to enter the vast Chinese market. It now has over 200 branches across the country.

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Hong Kong Impressive Skyline

That very evening I got on a flight from Manila to Hong Kong. I was originally planning for a trip to China with me exiting from Hong Kong back to Singapore. However, it seems it was not to be and something urgent came up in Manila and I needed to cancel the trip. When the issue has subsided, I realized that I still have a ticket back from Hong Kong back to Singapore. I decided to make use of that by taking a trip to Hong Kong instead of heading back to Singapore immediately. After all, I already wasted enough money with the cancelled plane tickets and hotel reservations.

Not So Nice Roast Goose Rice

Fortunately for me, Hong Kong is an easy place for me to go to since I have a friend who was willing to put me up at his place. All I had to do is get there. I have been there numerous times to know my way around the city and beyond. This time around, I only plan on just taking a break after all the hubbub in Manila. I took the late Cebu Pacific flight to Hong Kong.

Speaking of which, in another wonderful case of inefficiency, it turns out that buying Cebu Pacific tickets over the counter will definitely include a travel tax whether or not you are exempted. I asked if it was possible to refund it since I was entitled to an exemption. The staff said yes, but I would have to get the refund not at the airport, but at the Department of Tourism office in Manila. I find this very ridiculous not to mention irritating, especially the way they always try to make things so difficult for anyone. I decided to just purchase my ticket online instead and be done with it.

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