Our Ride Back Down the Saddle

After one an a half hour of gruelling walk back to the Saddle from the village of Batad, I finally made it back with time to spare. The jeepney was there as promised along with a host of other people, locals and foreigners on their way to Banaue. The jeepney won’t be leaving just yet so we were relaxing at the only place we can relax here at the Saddle. There was a lone store at the Saddle selling drinks to tired travellers. Naturally, they are quite expensive, but of course if you are in need of water, you would probably pony up for it. Talk about monopoly.

Some of the foreigners decided to ride on top of the jeepney. I would probably agree that it would be a nice experience, but this was probably not the place to do it. The sun was already bearing down on us and that metal roof will definitely get very hot as the day progresses. However, most importantly, the road down the Saddle isn’t really a real road, it just was a dirt road. The rains the previous day might have loosened the soil here and I don’t really trust the jeepney would be able to handle it. Sitting on top might not be the best place to be if something happened. Oh, did I mention that the road was only good enough for one vehicle?

The View from the Saddle

Apparently, the jeepney drive was confident that no one will be climbing up was running quite fast, when another vehicle suddenly popped up. The sudden brake of the jeepney sent us sliding down the slope a couple of feet. Fortunately, no one fell or was hurt. We got back to Banaue in one piece and by the time afternoon came it was raining. I was intending to visit some of the other terraces in the area which I haven’t visited, but forgot all about it because of the weather. At least it wasn’t hot.

After lunch, with nothing to do but just hang around, I just got a room at People’s Inn and spent the rest of the afternoon there. The bus back to Manila will only leave at 6:30. The room wasn’t really that interesting, but at least it was clean. There was also the sound of the nearby stream providing some ambience. I got back to Manila in no time, the typhoon veered away from the area and was no threat at all. Anyway, for the short time that I spent there, I was still glad I got away from it all.

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Climbing Back Out of Batad

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Magnificent View of the Surrounding Mountains in Batad

Even before I went to Batad this time, there was an impending typhoon, though it hasn’t made landfall yet, there was a threat that it would pass through the Ifugao region. I had to make a decision on whether I should stay or continue on my vacation. Chances are the mountains will shield the region from the effects of the typhoon. Then again maybe not. I decided to err on the side of caution and left Simon’s Inn the very next day. I would have wanted to explore the area but I can’t risk getting stranded in the mountains for the next couple of days.

Staircases to the Sky at Batad

My legs haven’t even recovered yet from walking down the mountain and yet, I’m torturing them again by climbing back up. I decided to leave early, around 6:30 in the morning so that I would have enough time to make it to the 9am jeepney that leaves from the Saddle. It takes people 45 minutes to go down, it will probably take me twice a long to go back up. This would give me ample time to crawl back up. Fortunately for me, the rain from the previous has already dried up and the path was as good as it can ever be. There is only one way up so there is no risk of getting lost here. A few people overtook me on the way up but they were mostly locals probably rushing off to work in the big town of Banaue.

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Village at the Foot of the Batad Rice Terraces

Just after I got to Simon’s Inn I decided to do a little exploration. I actually wanted to visit the beautiful Tappia falls which I literally needed to cross a mountain just to see. I have a very good idea where the falls is, it is just that the paths to the down the valley and to the falls isn’t really very well marked. I tried walking down the mountain by myself, but found myself in a dead end. I couldn’t find a path, or make that I was too lazy for find a path.

This is as Far as I Could Go

Honestly, I was too tired from walking down the mountain that morning and I was still feeling the effects. My legs were already like jelly and I was nowhere even halfway down the mountain. Although I wanted to see the Tappia falls, the flesh is weak and I reasoned that it was getting dark and I don’t want to be caught in the middle of nowhere in a thunderstorm. There won’t be any trees for shelter here and the inn will be a hour’s worth of hiking just to get back from the falls. The lazy me won and I head back to Simon’s inn and just relaxed the day away. Sure enough, a few hours later, there was a storm. Laziness has it benefits too.

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I thought that since I have been to Batad village, I would know what to expect now. However, that wasn’t the case. The moment I stepped outside the Saddle, it was like at totally new path for me. Indeed, it has been more than six years since I last set foot on this path, I thought that it wouldn’t change that much. Maybe it did, maybe it didn’t, but I don’t remember the path being like that. Maybe my memory is failing me. Last time a friend of mine accompanied me to the village, this was my first time alone. Maybe I wasn’t paying attention.

Anyway, after about 45 minutes of walking. The constant pounding on the knees is already taking its toll on me. I was already huffing and puffing, and this was downhill. I dread to imagine how it would be like to go back up the same way. The was not much to see along the way though, we met a local girl going the other way, and she was it was still 30 minutes away. I was already wondering why did I decide to come here knowing it will be a difficult climb when we were suddenly met by the mejestic view of the ampitheater of Batad.

Simon's Inn at Batad

I quickly made my way to Simon’s Inn, where I stayed the last time. There didn’t seem to be anyone staying there at the time and Simon was nowhere in sight. Anyway I go a room for myself and just crashed into the bed. I spent a while to admire the view from Simon’s Inn balcony. This time the village as electricity but at night it was still eerily quiet. I made the mistake of leaving my window open at night when I was getting to bed, when I turn off I realized my mistake, there were a lot of insects that were attracted to the light of the room. Try as I might I won’t be able to chase them out, some were quite huge too. May I could just sleep with them.

When I closed the lights, I discovered that the room was filled with fireflies, lots of them. Sure they were pretty and all, but it was really irritating since they don’t keep still and kept flying in the dark. I tried to tough it out but it was no use. I opened another room’s light hoping it would attract them out of my room, but it was taking forever. I decided to just switch to another room. Everybody was already asleep so I just took a room next door and finally got to sleep soundly.

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It was my third time to be going to Banaue, and I could say that I am already quite comfortable in that town. What did catch me by surprise though, is the number touts that have sprouted since my last visit. Although they are not the pushy type, at least not yet, they are numerous enough to irritate me. What more with their constant chewing of betel nuts giving them their bloody smiles, makes you think that they want to say “I want to suck your blood… and your money, too.”

Surrounding Terraces of the Batad Ampitheater

It seems that they have standardized the rates for going to the village of Batad by tricycle. This is well and good, since you don’t need to be afraid of getting ripped off – everyone will be equally ripped off. I thought it was quite pricey, I really wish they have public transport going to the village, then again maybe not at it might ruin the idyllic nature of the village. Since I was travelling alone, sharing is not an option either, oh well.

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Ampitheater Shaped Batad Rice Terraces

It has become a habit of mine whenever I visit the Philippines to go out of town for a short trip. It is primarily the only way to avoid the madness that is Manila and what comes with it. I took a bus ride from Autobus company, the only one I knew which went to the mountain town of Banaue. This was probably the third station they own that I have been to. I have been informed that this small waiting area of theirs is finally their own, the first two were only rented. I then noticed the huge fleet of bus that rival Florida bus company has. How much has this company grown in the recent years? Their buses seem to be very well maintained too. Anyway, I was going with Autobus because it wasn’t that bad anyway.

View of Small Village in Batad

I actually, booked a ride over the phone and I was told that the bus leaves at 6:30pm. I was quite puzzled since I remember the buses used to leave at ten in the evening. However, when I got there I was told that the schedule never changed. Oh well, went to a nearby mall where I waited until the time to depart. The bus station actually wasn’t that big so I wasn’t really very comfortable waiting there. Eating places weren’t really that common either. I got a nice seat in front with no seatmates making the trip a little more comfortable. I can’t wait to go back there as I have been craving for some mountain air for a while.

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People Working Hard in the Workshop

After the so-so Tiwang Ethnic Village tour, our guide Jordan brought us back down the mountain. But not before stopping by a workshop for woodcarving. This shop was just on the side of a road. There was a little hut and the shop was right besides it. There were a total of five people working very hard and carving stuff from the wood around them. There were wood shavings all around the place but a look at how they work would tell you that very little is wasted in these carvings. The carver just slices through the soft wood and carves out a small Ifugao hut for us to see.

A Newbie Trying His Hand at Carving

Interesting. The carvers weren’t in a friendly mood and hardly ever noticed us. I guess they are used to being looked at all the time. Jordan then invited us for some drinks at the hut beside the workshop. It turns out that this was his home! I wasn’t expecting him to bring us to his house and he even served us some bread and chocolate milk for refreshments. We also get to know more of his family. His brother was there and so was his European girlfriend. Wow. It felt a little awkward to see a European lady serve us snack all the way out here but it seems like she knows the family quite well.

See How the Expert Does It

I was half expecting Jordan to sell us something as is usually the case whenever tourists are brought to handicraft factories, but in this case there wasn’t any. I was pleasantly surprised to know that there really was no ulterior motive for bringing us here. It was really to enjoy a snack with the family. I thought it was really very nice of him to do so.

In a few hours, I will be boarding my bus back to Manila, it would be another extremely long bus ride but the memories of this place I will keep for even longer. This was a truly rewarding vacation and I hope I would be able to have something like this soon.

Carvers Working Intently

As for the English lady, funny but I didn’t really get her name, she still has a couple of weeks in the Philippines. I suggested that she try visiting Vigan in Ilocos Sur but she said she wasn’t really interested in Philippines historical sites, I can understand. England probably has a lot more of those. I recommended that she visit the nearby village of Batad. She seems fitter than me and should be able to handle the hike down to the village. She arranged with Jordan for transportation to the village. I saw her off, envious that she has so much time to travel. I took a tricycle to the Autobus terminal in Banaue and got ready for my journey back to reality.

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Inside the Ifugao Hut

The owner of the Tiwang Ethnic Village motioned us to follow him. He climbed up the Ifugao hut in the middle and asked us to follow. This was to be our introduction into the world of the Ifugao people. The hut was elevated above the ground to keep the occupants cool. It was also to avoid any pests like snakes and most insects. As for the flying ones, they have a small fire inside the wooden hut to smoke away all the insects that might want a piece of them.

An Interesting Ladle

Immediately, I noticed that the air was quite smokey. I guess the Ifugao people have gotten used the smell of this that the don’t mind it anymore. Inside the hut was very dark, not because of the lack of light but more because of the soot from the fire that they constantly have. Inside the hut are a huge assortment of utensils that the Ifugao people use. There were a lot of not so-authentic stuff like a wok for cooking but a lot of stuff there were quite interesting. Some of the utentils have interesting shapes like a female figure for the handle of a ladle or a hand for the handle of a wok.

Fireplace Used for Cooking

And just like a hut I saw in Batad before, there were skulls of farm animals displayed outside the hut. This represents the social status of the family. The more skulls, the more important they are. It is obvious from the way they build their houses that the Ifugao really know how to live with their environment. I think it is great lesson to be learned from these people.

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Carvings in the Tiwang Ethnic Village

After the impressive tour of the Banaue Rice Terraces, our guide Jordan asked us if we are interested to see an ethnic village. I still have a lot of time before my bus finally leaves for Manila so I didn’t mind another tour. The English lady I was with didn’t mind either, and I think she would find it interesting. The village wasn’t that far away but we needed to climb a small hill to get there. The Tiwang Ethnic Village is privately owned and is open for special events.

Igorot Hut in Tiwang Ethnic Village

It does feel very touristy, with a ready Ifugao hut within the premises. There were some Ifugao themed carvings on the side. Not really very authentic in my opinion. Not surprisingly, there were no visitors when we got there. The owner however was very accomodating and was showing us around. I probably have been to a more authentic Ifugao village in Batad. Actually, it doesn’t even feel like a village since people do not really live there. This is more for the tourist trade. Oh well, I might as well try to enjoy the place since I already paid for it.

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Wooden Souvenirs at the Shop

As I was admiring the postcard view of the Banaue Rice Terraces from the Viewpoint, I noticed that there was a small souvenir shopp right at the viewpoint itself. The owner somehow managed to find a great spot here at the viewpoint where there are more customers. Unfortunately for the owner, there were not a lot of customers at the moment.

Even Furniture is on Sale

The shop is a simple wooden shop selling a lot of Igorot themed stuff. From statues to key chains to furniture. The shop seems to have a lot of high quality stuff that can be bought but I wasn’t really into this kind of thing. The owner mentioned that a lot of his customers are actually from overseas. He has a factory that manufactures these things and exports them. I noticed a very un-Igorot Chinese dragon beside the shop and ask him about it. These are basically samples from China which are sent here for his workers to manufacture and export back out to other countries.

Huge Deer Head

It was interesting to see all his stuff. He even has this giant fork and spoon that is ubiquitous in Filipino households. It was a wonder that there were not more people looking at his stuff. In the end, I got myself my mandatory T-shirt souvenir. I guess I also bought it as gratitude for his letting me take photos of his store. Shops like these are good since they help to preserve the culture of their ancestors. They may not practice it anymore but at least they will live on in their handicrafts.

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