View from Mt. Polis

I woke up early the next in Sagada, sadly for me, it was already time to leave. I such a short while, I had grown to love Sagada. The mysterious and scenic town can really get to you. The wonderful weather is a welcome break from the non-stop heat back in Manila. At the main square, there was a waiting bus to Bontoc, the capital of Mt. Province. It didn’t really take long for the jeepney to fill up since a lot of people go to the big city to work.

A Queue of Buses at the Stopover

In the jeepney, I happened to get to know this not-so-elderly lady from England who was travelling alone. She was told me that we was on her way to Banaue, which also happened to be my destination. Great! At least I will have someone to talk to on the way back. The jeepney followed the same highway we used to get to Sagada, winding through scenic mountain passes and over the Chico River. Unfortunately, I didn’t have my own car so I couldn’t stop and take photos of the wonderful scenery.

A Small Hut Along the Road

When we got to Bontoc, we needed to switch to another bus which was headed to Banaue, fortunately, it is much easier to get this bus since they seem to have a lot of buses travelling between the two cities. This time we didn’t need to wait very long unlike the other way around where I needed to wait several hours for the jeepney to fill up on the way to Sagada. The highway passed by truly scenic mountain vistas, which hardly a soul to be seen. Once in a while though there were construction work being done on the mountain slopes to prevent landslides which are very common here.

Thick Fog Coming

After an hour and a half of travelling, we came to a rest stop, which was the same rest stop as before. It was Mt. Polis, which was a no-man’s land, with only a few stalls meant for the dirty, badly shaken and weary traveller. It took some time to take photos of the surrounding scenery at Mt. Polis. The stopover is at a very high point in the mountain and it overlooks a huge valley below. Further, you can see the mountains looming over the horizon. I was lucky that day, since the previous time I was there, the place was obscured by clouds. But not for long, since a huge cloud was already starting to cover the rest of our way to Banaue.

Oh well, there wasn’t really much to see here in Mt. Polis anyway. Maybe when the mountain resort they are building is finished will we get to see more interesting places but for now, it is just a simple rest stop.

Related Posts:

Long Road to Sagada Guest House

Exploring Sagada

New Day In Sagada

My Food at the Log Cabin

Finally night came, this would be my last night here in Sagada and I feel sad to be leaving this wonderful place. I have saved the best place to eat for the last. The most recommended place to eat here in Sagada is the delightful Log Cabin. The Log Cabin is just up the road from the Sagada Guest House. It would be difficult to miss this place since this would be the only Log Cabin in the area.

Wonderful Interiors of the Restaurant

The restaurant is famous for its wonderful food, most especially on weekends where the food is prepared by a French Chef. As to what he is doing here in this part of the world is beyond me but just looking around Sagada, I have a pretty good idea why he decided to set up shop here. The interiors of the Log Cabin are exactly what one would expect from a real Log Cabin. The place is practically made of wood. It even has a nice fireplace to keep customers warm during really cold nights.

They Even Have a Fireplace

Naturally, I ordered their food here, it was a little more expensive than normal, but I don’t really come here that often so I didn’t really mind if I paid a little extra for great food. There were a couple more customers and all of them were foreigners. Looking at this scene it would seem like I was in some log cabin in the mountains of Europe or the United States.

Not before long, my food finally came and it certainly looked impressive. The chicken was covered with chips made from sweet potato. I normally do not like eating sweet potato but probably it was because they were made from very fresh sweet potatoes that I managed to eat them. I didn’t just managed to eat them, I loved them. It was a dish unlike any I had ever before. The vegetables of Sagada, really make a huge difference. It was too bad that the French chef prepares a grand feast only on weekends since I wasn’t there on a weekend. Yet, another reason for me to come back here.

Makes You Think This was in Europe

After a while of sitting there admiring the Log Cabin, I realized that it was already past 9 in the evening. Sagada enforces a 9pm curfew that the locals adhere to. Visitors are normally not covered by the curfew but I would be eerie to be walking out in the dark without anyone in sight. It is another peculiar custom they observe here. It is probably for peace and order. And it works, since Sagada seems to be a really peaceful place. I stepped out of the Log Cabin and it was indeed very quiet. Fortunately, the Sagada Guest House was nearby so I didn’t really have to intrude that much. The door was already locked when I got there but they still opened the door for me. Whew!

I really liked the Log Cabin and I was wondering why there aren’t more of these places here in Sagada. The country atmosphere is very nice and I hope others would take up this great idea as well. I has been a wonderful few days here in Sagada and I really would love to come back here. The unique traditions and character of the town itself really make it stand out from the other towns in the country and make it a must visit place.

Related Posts:

Yoghurt House

Masferre Country Inn and Restaurant

New Day In Sagada

Sun Sets Behind the Mountains

Sagada is a really interesting and relaxing place. The pace of life here is so slow even the cows chew slowly. In fact, you could probably spend the entire day at the town square just people watching and just basically watch life pass by. The uniqueness of Sagada is really alluring, that it feels like it is a different country altogether. The high altitude weather is so not Manila. It is feels perfectly safe to roam the streets of Sagada, unlike some parts of Manila. The people are not even Catholics, unlike most of the country.

Brilliant Sunset in Sagada

But make no mistake, the people here in Sagada are just as technologically savvy as any other person from Manila. They people go to Facebook and other popular website just like any other people. The furiously text the other half while tending to the farm. The children are highly educated and speak fluent English. In fact they would probably prefer that you speak to them in English rather than Tagalog. This is somewhat of a good thing for foreigners who visit this place, since there wouldn’t be any language barrier at all. Although, English is widely understood and spoken throughout the country.

Silhouette of Trees

The landscape of Sagada is particularly special since it is on top of a mountain range. The limestone mountains have dozens of caves ripe for exploring. These same caves have also given rise to unique customs and traditions that are still being practiced to this day. These traditions are widely practices in this region and have given the region with a very unique character. These minute details have given Sagada a very special place in the tourism map that, thankfully, still has to be discovered by the hordes of tourists in other countries.

Related Posts:

Exploring Sagada

Karst Landscape of Sagada

Sagada Rice Terraces

Pine Cones on the Ground

While there is still quite a bit of the afternoon left, I was looking for a place to visit. Listed in the travel guides is Kiltepan which is a supreb view area where you can see pretty much of Sagada and the surrounding areas. I decided to go there since based on the map it seems to be quite near. I merely followed the main road going out of the town. And just beyond a small shop, I turned right where it seems like there was some excavation going on.

A Semblance of a View

I continued on the road but I didn’t really see any thing that might resemble a Kiltepan. So I turned back and asked for directions at the store I just passed by. She said that I was right, and to just continue on to follow the road I just took. So off I went again, I didn’t really see anything interesting there. There was however a small hill which looks like there is a path, actually I wasn’t sure anymore since the paths there look much like the path I took to see the hanging coffins, where I almost got lost.

On a Pine Tree

Undaunted, I continued looking for a path, even though I was sure it was no longer a path. The hill was quite steep and covered with tall pine trees. In some parts, I had to go around some thick vegetation to reach the top of the hill, being very careful not to lose my footing. When I got to the top, there was nothing to see. I was very disappointed. Either I got the wrong Kiltepan or this was the right Kiltepan and there are now tall trees blocking the view. I can barely see the other side of the trees. Really disappointed now, I headed back down the hill, I passed by the store where I asked for directions but I didn’t really bother telling her that I didn’t find it.

Pine Trees All Around

I didn’t really have much time anymore to look for the real Kiltepan since it was almost sundown and I didn’t wan’t to get stuck on top of a hill trying to find my way back to town. There were hardly any people here so it wouldn’t be wise to continue. Anyway, I think it would be a good incentive for me to come back here since there seems to be a lot of surprises in this mystical little town.

Related Posts:

Exploring Sagada

Hanging Coffins of Sagada

Small Stopover at Huangshan 黄山 Western Steps

Masferre Chicken

We got back to Sagada at one in the afternoon. Obviously a half day to climbing up the side of a mountain in Fidelisan Village is too much for me. I was starving. Fortunately, there were a lot of restaurants nearby and I quickly headed to Masferre Country Inn and Restaurant. They had this Masferre Chicken which sounded interesting. After all, if they are willing to put their name on that dish then I guess it must be good.

This is Probably Where it Came From

When my food came, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the chicken was quite big. I think it is a far cry from the scrawny little chicks they call chicken back in Manila. The chicken was nice and tender and is quite fragrant. Still I have had better fried chicken elsewhere but I guess this is as fresh as it could get and it is difficult to beat that. They probably just slaughtered the poor thing a few minutes ago. The vegetables that came with the meal we top notch, sweet and crunchy and most of all very fresh. I believe that fresh vegetables can be had in Sagada quite easily and should be standard fare in most of the restaurants here.

Related Posts:

Masferre Country Inn and Restaurant

Yoghurt House

Lunch in Yangshuo Countryside

View of the Rice Terraces from the Top

I think I got enough rest from the Bomod-ok Waterfalls to begin the climb back to the ridge where the jeepney dropped me off. I was careful to mind my steps since I already had a nasty slip in the damp area of near the waterfalls. It was already approaching noon time and the sun was already beginning to bear down on us. The cool mountain weather is starting to wear off, most especially that I still needed to climb a mountain for an hour, probably longer now.

Endless Flight of Stairs

The route from the falls to the terraces was easy enough since it was mostly flat terrain. But then the dreaded stairs started. Step by step I dragged myself up the endless flight of stairs, at one point I noticed a kid who was tasked by his parents to bring firewood was slowly making his way up the same flight of stairs I was in. He had this heavy-looking log on his shoulder. It was sort of surprising to see children to be asked to do this but this is their culture. I do not think this should be considered child labor since these are considered chores, not jobs.

Majestic Rice Terrraces on the Way Back

It tried my best to stay ahead of the kid with the log but in the end I couldn’t keep up with him. He overtook me in a short while and like my guide, not even breaking a sweat. He probably could have carried me along with him and still won’t break a sweat. Come to think of it, he probably has that training everyday when he needs to go to school which is beyond the valley. Fortunately, there was only my guide to witness my humiliation in the hands of that kid.

Kid Overtaking Me

I had to take several short breaks to catch my breath and to “take photos”. The view was just as amazing as when I first arrived. There were clouds which cast shadows on the rice terraces giving some interesting contrasts in color. I really needed to hurry since it was already very hot. I guess it was kind of strange to see me with a sweater on my waist and sweating it all the way to the top. Anyway, with the last ounce of my strength, I made it.

Leaving His Client Behind

The jeepney driver from that morning was right there waiting for me but it seems that he won’t be going anywhere soon. However, there was another jeepney that was taking in passengers and it will be leaving much earlier than the other guy. There was nothing really to do around here so I took the jeepney and soon we were off for Sagada. In the meantime, I will just relax and enjoy the ride.

Related Posts:

Rice Terraces of Fidelisan

Batad Rice Terraces

Bangaan Rice Terraces

Bomod-ok Falls in Fidelisan Village

The main reason to go to Fidelisan village is to visit the majestic Bomod-ok falls. However, when I got to the village itself, the lack of tourist infrastructure reared its not so ugly head. There were no signs pointing to the falls at all. I kept moving in circles around the village hoping to see a sign where the falls is but no luck. In one of my passes, the guy who asked me whether I needed the services of a guide was watching me. He asked me again if I want a guide this time since I obviously cannot find the falls on my own. I finally relented and hired him.

My Guide and the Rice Terraces

He wasn’t really the talkative type of guide. He was just leading me to the falls that’s all. I tried to liven up the hike with a few questions. This is what I found out. He works on the field just like the everyone else. Most of the kids here study, but the school is not in the village itself. It is beyond the ridge where I got off the jeepney in the first place. Wow, imagine that having to climb up the mountain every single day from young. No wonder these guys don’t even break a sweat climbing up the mountain.

The Falls Up Close

We passed through amazing rice terrace scenery, where we go down the mountain towards the falls. This hike reminds me of the hike to Tappia Falls in Batad. In fact, the layout of the place is extremely similar. To the left is a steep slope of rice terraces ascending to the sky. The falls were also beyond the terraces which we needed to clear first.

The Bottom of the Falls

We had to hop across several freshly planted paddies to get to the falls. This time my footing was more secure unlike the previous hike in Batad where I slipped and got one foot into knee deep paddy/mud. The hike to the falls is also nowhere near as strenuous as the hike to Tappia Falls. Not before long, we started to hear the sound of water thundering down the mountain. We have finally reached the falls.

Notice the Veil of Water on the Right of the Falls

The name of the falls is Bomod-ok Falls, it is commonly known as Big Falls in Sagada, since there is a much smaller falls in Sagada itself. I didn’t really get to see the smaller falls in Sagada but I can be assured that Bomod-ok Falls is much more impressive. The falls thunders down to the icy cold pool below. This is already the start of the dry season so the water isn’t as impressive. The best time to visit this place as with any other falls, is right after a storm.

Pool of Ice Cold Water Below the Falls

The falls at the end of a natural gorge. The water below the flows outwards where some of the water is then used for irrigation. At the top of the falls is a pipe which my guide says is for the water needs of Fidelisan Village. Easily missed, there is smaller thinner falls which is much closer to the wall of the gorge. The water comes more like a thin shower giving it a veil like appearance. Bomod-ok is really very impressive, and probably one of the more impressive waterfalls I have seen.

My Guide Just Hanging Out

The surrounding area of the falls is, as expected, damp. The water from the falls splashes onto the rocks nearby nourishing mosses and other plants in the area. As I was taking photos nearby but I suddenly lost my footing and slipped onto the wet rock! Fortunately, I didn’t hurt myself or my camera. Only then did my guide warn me that it is very slippery. No, really?! Oh well, at least I didn’t get hurt. I still continued taking photos but much more carefully this time and then finally relaxing for another thirty minutes to the fresh water sprinkling all over the place.

Canal Piping Water from the Falls

What is the best thing about this place? When I went there, my guide and I were the only ones there! It is very rare that you get a place this nice all to yourself. I guess I was quite lucky that I went there before school was out. Then again, this place also doesn’t seem to be in the tourism radar yet. I’m pretty sure that locals know about this place but this is like their biggest secret just waiting to be discovered. Dare I say the Fidelisan is the makings of another Batad?

Related Posts:

Tappia Falls

Liusha Waterfalls 流沙瀑布

Exploring Batad Rice Terraces

Rice Terraces in Fidelisan Village

As I continued my hike toward Fidelisan Village, I noticed that they also have rice terraces. I guess it is no longer a surprise that they would also have this here. The Philippines is a rice eating nation and the people here in the mountains are no different. They do have a disadvantage when living in the mountains. Planting rice needs flat ground, and a mountain is no place to find it.

Too Lazy to Go to the Terraces, Just Zoom

However, the people here ingenious as ever, flattened mountains into stair-like terraces. On these steps, it become flat enough to plant rice and other crops. In some places, there only mountain, so you would see stairs forming even on the sides of steep mountains to enable them to plant rice. The thought of climbing these stairs every day is daunting, but this is what I’m doing here.

Magnificent Rice Terraces Nestled in a Valley

Rice terraces are usually built in a valley like structure. The flatter the better of course. The rice terraces of Fidelisan Village are no different. Actually, they are more like textbook perfect model of rice terraces. When I visited, the rice shoots are just coming out giving the terraces a brilliant green color.

Stairs of Rice Planted Along a Mountainside

Along the way to the village, someone who overtook me a few minutes ago was waiting for something. Then he asked me if I wanted a guide. I thought the path should be staightforward enough that I should be able to find my intended destination in no time. Just like Sagada, this place also doesn’t have any signs. Not really very tourist friendly, right? I would rather view this as a sign that the place is not very touristed so there wasn’t really a need for a sign in the first place. Everyone in the village knows where everything else is anyway. I guess this is also part of the allure of the place which brought me here in the first place.

Related Posts:

Bangaan Rice Terraces

A Look at the Hapao Rice Terraces

Batad Rice Terraces

Village of Fidelisan

This day I will be going to Fidelisan Village. I took a jeepney ride in the main square of Sagada town to this village. Thankfully, the road to the village was over paved road and nothing really out of the ordinary happened. It was a short ride of less than an hour. I didn’t know where the village was so I relied on the driver to let me know where it was.

Path Through the Rice Fields

Upon reaching a relatively more populated area, relatively means there were houses, but not much, he told me to get off at that point. He told me that if I need to go back to Sagada, he will just be there waiting for passengers. It is good to know that there will be ready transportation going back to the town. Actually this is not Fidelisan Village itself. The actual Fidelisan Village is the village in the valley, so I needed to go down a long flight of stairs to get to the village itself.

The Mountain Dwarfs the Village

There is a small opening along the main road which leads to a long flight of stairs down to the village. It was totally unmarked, and I would have definitely missed it if the people there didn’t point it out to me. From he I can already see the village itself. It was so tiny and so far! Looks like I’m in for another round of hiking.

Related Posts:

Rice Terraces of Fidelisan

New Day In Sagada

Hiking in Dehang

Busy Day In Sagada

I had a wonderful night’s rest in Sagada Guest House. The weather was wonderful and very conducive to sleeping. Today, I would be going to a different village. Surprisingly, in contrast to the cloudy weather I got the previous day, it was a bright and sunny day. The sky was a nice hue of blue and the visibility was great.

The Main Square of Sagada

The village was already up and about this early in the morning. I noticed that whenever I am in sleepy villages like this, I tend to wake up much earlier than normal. The villages were already going up an about here. First order of business was to find my transport to the next village. There was a queue of buses and jeepneys beyond the main square and one of them goes to my intended destination.

Overlooking the Village

I found out that they won’t be leaving anytime soon so I told the driver that I will be having breakast first. I grabbed a sorry breakfast of tocilog at the nearby Ganduyan Cafe. Sorry because the tocino or cured pork was really tiny. Anyway, I got my breakfast and went back to the waiting jeepney which was already close to full.

Related Posts:

Walk in the Clouds in Sagada

Going to Fidelisan Village

Exploring Sagada