Our Ride Back Down the Saddle

After one an a half hour of gruelling walk back to the Saddle from the village of Batad, I finally made it back with time to spare. The jeepney was there as promised along with a host of other people, locals and foreigners on their way to Banaue. The jeepney won’t be leaving just yet so we were relaxing at the only place we can relax here at the Saddle. There was a lone store at the Saddle selling drinks to tired travellers. Naturally, they are quite expensive, but of course if you are in need of water, you would probably pony up for it. Talk about monopoly.

Some of the foreigners decided to ride on top of the jeepney. I would probably agree that it would be a nice experience, but this was probably not the place to do it. The sun was already bearing down on us and that metal roof will definitely get very hot as the day progresses. However, most importantly, the road down the Saddle isn’t really a real road, it just was a dirt road. The rains the previous day might have loosened the soil here and I don’t really trust the jeepney would be able to handle it. Sitting on top might not be the best place to be if something happened. Oh, did I mention that the road was only good enough for one vehicle?

The View from the Saddle

Apparently, the jeepney drive was confident that no one will be climbing up was running quite fast, when another vehicle suddenly popped up. The sudden brake of the jeepney sent us sliding down the slope a couple of feet. Fortunately, no one fell or was hurt. We got back to Banaue in one piece and by the time afternoon came it was raining. I was intending to visit some of the other terraces in the area which I haven’t visited, but forgot all about it because of the weather. At least it wasn’t hot.

After lunch, with nothing to do but just hang around, I just got a room at People’s Inn and spent the rest of the afternoon there. The bus back to Manila will only leave at 6:30. The room wasn’t really that interesting, but at least it was clean. There was also the sound of the nearby stream providing some ambience. I got back to Manila in no time, the typhoon veered away from the area and was no threat at all. Anyway, for the short time that I spent there, I was still glad I got away from it all.

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Climbing Back Out of Batad

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Magnificent View of the Surrounding Mountains in Batad

Even before I went to Batad this time, there was an impending typhoon, though it hasn’t made landfall yet, there was a threat that it would pass through the Ifugao region. I had to make a decision on whether I should stay or continue on my vacation. Chances are the mountains will shield the region from the effects of the typhoon. Then again maybe not. I decided to err on the side of caution and left Simon’s Inn the very next day. I would have wanted to explore the area but I can’t risk getting stranded in the mountains for the next couple of days.

Staircases to the Sky at Batad

My legs haven’t even recovered yet from walking down the mountain and yet, I’m torturing them again by climbing back up. I decided to leave early, around 6:30 in the morning so that I would have enough time to make it to the 9am jeepney that leaves from the Saddle. It takes people 45 minutes to go down, it will probably take me twice a long to go back up. This would give me ample time to crawl back up. Fortunately for me, the rain from the previous has already dried up and the path was as good as it can ever be. There is only one way up so there is no risk of getting lost here. A few people overtook me on the way up but they were mostly locals probably rushing off to work in the big town of Banaue.

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Village at the Foot of the Batad Rice Terraces

Just after I got to Simon’s Inn I decided to do a little exploration. I actually wanted to visit the beautiful Tappia falls which I literally needed to cross a mountain just to see. I have a very good idea where the falls is, it is just that the paths to the down the valley and to the falls isn’t really very well marked. I tried walking down the mountain by myself, but found myself in a dead end. I couldn’t find a path, or make that I was too lazy for find a path.

This is as Far as I Could Go

Honestly, I was too tired from walking down the mountain that morning and I was still feeling the effects. My legs were already like jelly and I was nowhere even halfway down the mountain. Although I wanted to see the Tappia falls, the flesh is weak and I reasoned that it was getting dark and I don’t want to be caught in the middle of nowhere in a thunderstorm. There won’t be any trees for shelter here and the inn will be a hour’s worth of hiking just to get back from the falls. The lazy me won and I head back to Simon’s inn and just relaxed the day away. Sure enough, a few hours later, there was a storm. Laziness has it benefits too.

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I thought that since I have been to Batad village, I would know what to expect now. However, that wasn’t the case. The moment I stepped outside the Saddle, it was like at totally new path for me. Indeed, it has been more than six years since I last set foot on this path, I thought that it wouldn’t change that much. Maybe it did, maybe it didn’t, but I don’t remember the path being like that. Maybe my memory is failing me. Last time a friend of mine accompanied me to the village, this was my first time alone. Maybe I wasn’t paying attention.

Anyway, after about 45 minutes of walking. The constant pounding on the knees is already taking its toll on me. I was already huffing and puffing, and this was downhill. I dread to imagine how it would be like to go back up the same way. The was not much to see along the way though, we met a local girl going the other way, and she was it was still 30 minutes away. I was already wondering why did I decide to come here knowing it will be a difficult climb when we were suddenly met by the mejestic view of the ampitheater of Batad.

Simon's Inn at Batad

I quickly made my way to Simon’s Inn, where I stayed the last time. There didn’t seem to be anyone staying there at the time and Simon was nowhere in sight. Anyway I go a room for myself and just crashed into the bed. I spent a while to admire the view from Simon’s Inn balcony. This time the village as electricity but at night it was still eerily quiet. I made the mistake of leaving my window open at night when I was getting to bed, when I turn off I realized my mistake, there were a lot of insects that were attracted to the light of the room. Try as I might I won’t be able to chase them out, some were quite huge too. May I could just sleep with them.

When I closed the lights, I discovered that the room was filled with fireflies, lots of them. Sure they were pretty and all, but it was really irritating since they don’t keep still and kept flying in the dark. I tried to tough it out but it was no use. I opened another room’s light hoping it would attract them out of my room, but it was taking forever. I decided to just switch to another room. Everybody was already asleep so I just took a room next door and finally got to sleep soundly.

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Stunning View of the Batad Rice Terraces

It was my third time to be going to Banaue, and I could say that I am already quite comfortable in that town. What did catch me by surprise though, is the number touts that have sprouted since my last visit. Although they are not the pushy type, at least not yet, they are numerous enough to irritate me. What more with their constant chewing of betel nuts giving them their bloody smiles, makes you think that they want to say “I want to suck your blood… and your money, too.”

Surrounding Terraces of the Batad Ampitheater

It seems that they have standardized the rates for going to the village of Batad by tricycle. This is well and good, since you don’t need to be afraid of getting ripped off – everyone will be equally ripped off. I thought it was quite pricey, I really wish they have public transport going to the village, then again maybe not at it might ruin the idyllic nature of the village. Since I was travelling alone, sharing is not an option either, oh well.

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Ampitheater Shaped Batad Rice Terraces

It has become a habit of mine whenever I visit the Philippines to go out of town for a short trip. It is primarily the only way to avoid the madness that is Manila and what comes with it. I took a bus ride from Autobus company, the only one I knew which went to the mountain town of Banaue. This was probably the third station they own that I have been to. I have been informed that this small waiting area of theirs is finally their own, the first two were only rented. I then noticed the huge fleet of bus that rival Florida bus company has. How much has this company grown in the recent years? Their buses seem to be very well maintained too. Anyway, I was going with Autobus because it wasn’t that bad anyway.

View of Small Village in Batad

I actually, booked a ride over the phone and I was told that the bus leaves at 6:30pm. I was quite puzzled since I remember the buses used to leave at ten in the evening. However, when I got there I was told that the schedule never changed. Oh well, went to a nearby mall where I waited until the time to depart. The bus station actually wasn’t that big so I wasn’t really very comfortable waiting there. Eating places weren’t really that common either. I got a nice seat in front with no seatmates making the trip a little more comfortable. I can’t wait to go back there as I have been craving for some mountain air for a while.

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Grilling Some Beef at Gyubou Japanese Yakiniku Restaurant

I had a week’s stay in Manila and I intended to make the most of it, so did my friend who agreed to meet with me that night. Conveniently enough he has a car and it was easier and faster for us to move around. We wanted to go for some drinks but decided that the Serendra area was a big too pricey. He decided to try out the Malate area since that was near where I stayed. Another reason why we wanted to try it out is that the air in Malate/Adriatico area was supposed to be very different from the classy air in Makati.

The Raw Beef with Marinade at Gyubou Japanese Yakiniku Restaurant

Unfortunately, the tales of beatnik poets were consigned to the dust bins of history as they are not to be found anywhere. Instead of quiet cafes and restaurants, what greeted us was stall after stall of Korean restaurants. I remember long time ago, there were only a handful of Korean restaurants here but this has already changed completely with the influx of Korean visitors in the recent years. We didn’t go for any Korean food, instead we chose this quiet little Japanese restaurant named Gyubou Japanese Yakiniku Restaurant.

Raw Chicken at the Gyubou Japanese Yakiniku Restaurant

As the name implies, the restaurant specializes in yakiniku or grilled beef. It would have been nice sampling what they have but were just came from dinner and just ordered two dishes. Guests would cook the raw ingredients on top of a metal screen just above some hot stones. The beef was splendid, the marinade was very and juicy, just make sure you don’t over-cook it. The beef was not tough either. The chicken on the hand was a letdown, we would have probably done better if we ordered two beef instead of taking the chicken. As chicken isn’t really good at keeping in the juices.

Amusingly, we were surprised to see a well known celebrity come in with his little “partners”. I am not that familiar with Philippine showbiz, but this one was someone even I recognize. I guess, this place is indeed quite a nice place to have some dinner. Also, despite having to cook the food yourself, the restaurant provided individual chimneys to suck away all the smoke, so you don’t have to leave there restaurant, smelling like food.

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Wonderful Roasted Pork Belly at the Chelsea Market and Cafe

When I am in Manila, I usually dig out the old phone book and try to see who is available to meet up with. It is not that easy anymore since they all have their own families to take care of, so it is a great pleasure to me if someone actually has the time and is actually willing to meet up. I usually spend my time in the Makati business district whenever I am there, it is also one of the best places to meet up with old friends since that is where they most probably work. My friend, unfortunately, had to come from the suburbs so I needed to wait quite a bit before he comes.

Complimentatry Bread at the Chelsea Market and Cafe

One of the new eating places these days is the row of high end restaurants at the Serendra in the Bonifacio Global City. The restaurants here range from still affordable to the really expensive ones. Some of them are quite good and well known. Alas, my budget only can go for the still affordable range and we ended up at the Chelsea Market and Cafe. I don’t think I have heard of this place but the place seemed attractive. My friend probably hasn’t been there either so this was a nice experiment for us. The Chelsea Market and Cafe is set up quite well and the interiors are very tasteful. The brightly lit restaurant also has a selection of wines you can choose from.

Roast Beef at the Chelsea Market and Cafe

We ordered mostly meat dishes, one was beef and one was pork. I liked the pork dish a lot, it is actually just deep fried pork belly but better. The presentation was very attractive and gives you and impression of quality. It also came with gravy, I can’t really say what kind of cuisine this is, but I guess I can call it Filipino fusion cuisine. They do have other stuff like pizza so I won’t say what they specialize in. There was also complimentary bread while waiting, it did take some time before the food came and I found myself asking for another serving of bread. The bill though it wasn’t terribly expensive, it wasn’t that cheap either. Readers here would know that I hardly ever go to these kinds of place but doing it once in a while won’t hurt either.

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Braised Beef in Peace and Happiness Dumpling Restaurant in Makati

My travels have brought me back to Manila once again and upon my non-stop nagging my friends agreed to meet up with me. The weather was uncharacteristically wet that time of the years, which is just as well since I don’t want it to be hot. My friends told me they would bring me to a store which they think I would like, it made me curious. Little did I know that they would be bringing me to a Chinese restaurant. I tried to hide my disappointment when I saw where it was.

Food Cooked in Hot and Numbing Broth in Peace and Happiness Dumpling Restaurant in Makati

Peace and Happiness Dumpling House is something like of an odd ball especially when they set up shop in the ground floor of one of the Cityland towers along Gil Puyat Avenue in Makati City. It is closer to the PNR train tracks. One might find it strange to name a store Peace and Happiness but it is actually not very strange in Chinese culture. Upon closer inspection, there Chinese characters crudely displayed on their sign board, obviously local sign artist have no experience writing Chinese characters. The Chinese characters say 老北京 or Old Beijing, which is actually a very common name for a Chinese restaurant. However, the owner of the store, from China, wasn’t able to register the name “Old Beijing”, so Peace and Happiness it is.

Xiao Long Bao Actually Not Beijing Specialty But Good Nonetheless

I am quite familiar with Chinese cuisine enough to be able to tell regional specialties. Beijing food is typically norther fare with noodles and of course dumplings. Of course they do have their own share of famous dishes most notably Peking Duck. From the name of the store, I can only surmise that they serve typicial Beijing fare. My friend recommended the braised beef, which was smothered in some chili oil. It was really very tasty and I loved the texture of the meat. We also ordered some hotpot which was supposedly dipped in hot and numbing broth, bringing back memories of Sichuan. This is probably the first time I’ve had Sichuan pepper in the Philippines and I’m glad it is finally taking root. Sichuan cuisine is wildly popular in China and some of its aspects, notable hot and numbing flavor, has made it into other cuisines.

The restaurant at the time of visit, has much to improve on. The airconditioning wasn’t working so hotpot wasn’t really a good idea. The owner however was very apologetic and she said they needed to fix it. She actually speaks English, not that fluently though, so she needs to rely on her helpers. I suggested, in Chinese, that she try to expand to barbeque or 烧烤 as I’m sure it will be a hit with the Filipino locals, not just the Chinese expatriates. The problem is the building management won’t allow it. Not a surprise, since the strong smell of cumin might be offensive to the people unaccustomed to it. Amusingly, a helper commented how stinky cumin was. I guess it really is a very different market in the Philippines. I hope they do well as I won’t mind going back there.

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Pizza with Tawilis at Amici

From the title alone you would already know what kind of place this is. Amici Restaurant is one of the newer restaurants I have seen in Makati. Getting good Italian food in Manila is not easy as anyone who has eaten Jollibee spaghetti and Greenwich pizza can attest. These food have already been localized that it tastes completely different from the original. These could barely be considered Italian food anymore. For those wondering, Jollibee spaghetti sauce is sweet as with most spaghetti which is prepared in parties and gatherings. In fact, there is even a special spaghetti sauce which is Philippine style, I guess to make sure the people know what they are buying.

The Amici Italian Restaurant

Fortunately, the upper sectors of the market have managed to maintain the integrity of their Italian food, one restaurant that was recommended by a friend of mine was Amici Restaurant which is along Pasay Road just outside Don Bosco school. For those looking for Philippine style pasta, you can forget about this place. Amici Restaurant does pasta the right way, not with sweet sauce and hotdogs. They do have certain local concoctions such as pizza which uses the local fish tawilis instead of anchiovies. The pizza is wood fired as it is supposed to impart a smoky flavor to the pizza. Well, a lot of “upscale” Italian restaurants tend to advertise their pizza as wood fired all the time as part of their being “authentic”.

Amici's Lasagna

The lasagna was also nice, since they used the proper sauce to make it. Amici is also quite affordable which makes it an ideal place to go to compared to the pricier places in Makati. Off to the side they have a gelato stall which serves mouthwateringly good gelato. All of this is a pleasant surprise. My friend told me that this was once managed by the Fathers at nearby Don Bosco school when it was bought by a businessman and commercialized to what it is right now.

One thing I don’t like about the place is their location which is not really in a good part of town. Of course this probably helps keep the prices down. However, visitors will need to be careful here as I had an unfortunate experience right after I visited the Amici. My friend and I wanted to go to Greenbelt which was just nearby but my friend didn’t want to walk since it was hot. Fortunately, there was a jeepney terminal at the corner and we promptly got on. After a few minutes of waiting, I noticed a few men, who I thought were well dressed construction workers hanging around the area, one of them caught my eye and he moved away. After a minute, all four of them boarded the jeepney, with one of them trying to sit between my friend and I. My friend managed to get him to sit on the other side, beside him. But that proved to be my friend’s undoing. While the fully packed jeepney was moving, the man told my friend that his wallet is about to fall, which it was. After a while they all got off the jeepney and rode another one going the opposite direction.

Gelato Station at Amici Restaurant

This made my friend suspicious and he quickly checked his wallet and found it is missing money. He was robbed! He quickly ran after the still waiting jeepney and confronted the man who quickly shoved back the money he got saying he was only “practicing”. I realized that I was actually the target of this man and I was fortunate enough to have my friend “shield” me from this man. The modus is he keeps sticking close to you, taking advantage of the packed jeepney, and with a piece of cloth or envelope which covers his hands he does his dirty work. Because of the packed nature of jeepneys in the Philippines, you will never notice that he was already robbing you. In fact, he even had the courtesy of telling you your wallet fell.

Unfortunately, there was no police officer to arrest these people and the jeepney just went off not knowning that they were ferrying pickpockets. I found it disappointing and at the same time saddening to see this kind of thing happen. I jokingly thanked my friend for protecting me by sacrificing his wallet. So if you are in the neighborhood be more alert as these people don’t seem to know that people who take jeepneys do not have any money and would not care either. Just be alert and you will be okay.

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