Road to Sabang

Limestone Mountains of Palawan

Beautiful limestone mountains on the way to Sabang

So we’re finally on the move. Our jeepney left San Jose bus terminal for Sabang at around two in the afternoon. The entire jeepney was filled to the rafters with people, literally. Luckily I managed to sit by the window for some fresh air. I won’t want to be stuck in a jeepney for 3 hours sitting between people I don’t know. This is my first solo trip and I didn’t really know what’s in store for me I just pray that everything will turn out well.

Vendors at a Rest Stop

Vendors at a rest stop on the way to Sabang

It was a scenic ride from Puerto Princesa. The road was well paved leading to a very smooth and comfortable ride. The highway hugs the eastern coastline weaving through majestic mountains and verdant forests. Out here, you can see the simplicity of the lives of the people. You can’t help but contrast this with the way most of us live our lives.

Since the ride was three hours I started to get to know my seat mates. I was seated near a friendly Danish couple who spoke good English and it seems that they are also going the budget way. I find it amazing that people like them can go to a foreign country and just explore just like that. Most of these people would usually take off from work for weeks, sometimes months. I’m surprised their job is still waiting for them back home. Sitting in front of me is a group of Filipinos, one lady is from the city government and she needs to go to their branch office in a town near Sabang. Puerto Princesa is a huge city, yes, Sabang is still technically part of the city of Puerto Princesa even though it is already three hours away from the city center. Cities in the provinces tend to have large boundaries, Puerto Princesa city is one of them.

Wanna Buy Fish?

Wanna Buy Fish?

Another person I met is a friend of the Filipino lady. I was glad to find out that he is actually a resident of the town of Sabang. He said he would recommend his “brother’s” resort. I would later find out that the “brother” actually meant “brother in faith”.

Almost 45 minutes into the trip, the jeepney stopped in the middle of nowhere. It was a rest stop. There was a small hut nearby selling refreshments. Actually without getting off the jeepney, I soon found out what they were selling as they started swarming all over the jeepney. They were selling canned drinks, fresh fruit and vegetables and even fish. One thing in particular stood out from the rest. They had these bags of green stuff. They looked like vegetables, but the kind I’ve never seen before. Much as I was tempted to try it, I decided against it. I try not to eat unknown stuff on a trip. Who knows what can happen, right? Anyway, the other passengers were also buying the green stuff and eating them as some sort of snack. Quite interesting. I would find out later from the lady that it is actually some sort of seaweed. She kindly offered me some but I politely refused.

Never Ending Dirt Road

Never Ending Dirt Road

After a few more minutes, the jeepney was off again. When we hit the town of Salvacion, the jeepney made a left turn at the main junction. Some people got off here including a foreigner. People can wait at this junction to get a ride to El Nido or to Taytay. But it was a bit late in the afternoon, I wasn’t sure if they would be able to catch a ride at all. Salvacion town sure doesn’t look like a tourist town where you can easily find a place to sleep. If you miss the last trip to Taytay or El Nido. You’ll have to try again the next day. Such is the state of transportation in Palawan. Then again, this might be the very thing that is protecting it from mass tourism.

House Along the Highway to Sabang

House Along the Highway to Sabang

As the jeepney continued on its way to Sabang, the state of the road became bad. From the nicely paved highway we’ve been traveling on so far, it turned into a long dirt road. This is what the guide books and forums have been saying. This is what turned a one and a half hour trip to a three hour trip.

So far so good, despite the ride becoming much bumpier, we were still on track. The jeepney would stop by some villages along the way to pick up and drop passengers. One interesting thing is the driver also acts as some sort of courier for the people. Probably more reliable than the postman. The people would send goods like vegetables, fruits, appliances, even money from Puerto Princesa proper to their family in these villages. All they have to do it to ask the driver about a package for them. I guess it is easier to do it now that everyone has mobile phones. Pretty efficient way of bringing stuff from the city to the villages, don’t you think?

Hut Near Limestone Mountains

A hut near limestone mountains of Palawan

The dirt road would sometimes be blessed with a paved portion. But these keep few and far in between, usually near towns or villages. By now, the state of the road turned from bad to worse. Now, it is not just a dirt road but a road of mud. It seems like there was rain not too long ago, so the dirt started caking up. Luckily the jeepney (and the driver) was made and trained for things like these. There were portions of the road which were going downhill and caked with mud. Not a good combination. Fortunately, our able driver breezed through this challenge without slipping. I noticed that there were construction machines along the way, presumably to pave the road, but it seems like the gave up for now. It also seemed like they were the only machines in the entire Puerto Princesa – Sabang stretch. Barring any rain, they should be finished in ten years.

My Trusty Steed

My Trusty Steed

The rain forest soon gave way to mountains. Beautiful limestone mountains towered over fields. The man from Sabang mentioned to me that this is the source of the famous Underground River. It is really a marvelous sight, and to think that you would never see any mention of this in any of the guide books or forums. There were a couple of places the local people were promoting for tourism like a couple of lookout points and some caves. Times like these I wish I had rented a van. Then I could stop a explore the area for a while.

I was already hearing the sound of the sea. It seemed like we are already along the western coast of Palawan. The lady from Puerto Princesa municipal hall bid me farewell as she has already reached her destination. Thirty minutes later we arrived at Sabang. I paid my fare and got my stuff. The man from Sabang, called me over to bring me to his “brother’s” resort. Finally, I am in Sabang, home of the famous Underground River!

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